Who’s Your Clothier?

Many men have not had to address this question until recently. The common approach was to go to an upscale department store and grab a suit off the rack. Unfortunately, that experience often involved encountering an eager salesperson who was ill-prepared to discuss the various intricacies related to the construction and quality of a men’s suit. Consequently, many patrons of big-box retailers left displeased with both their interaction and purchase. Although there are still individuals who choose to endure these encounters, the paradigm has shifted, as many consumers have become more knowledgeable about the two pillars of a high-caliber suit-quality fabric and sound construction.

Some say, and we agree, that the new millennium welcomed back the “Contemporary Gentleman.” An impeccably dressed man who’s outward appearance reflects status, an attribute that, many times, lends itself to conversations that lead to mutually beneficial personal and business relationships. More importantly, a Contemporary Gentleman refuses to purchase his garments from anyone who is less informed than he. It is with no reservation that we hold out Andrew Porter as a superior clothier with vast knowledge regarding men’s fashion in general.

Please understand that without a good fit, the most expensive suit isn’t going to wear well, feel comfortable, or provide the look you were seeking upon purchase. Most individuals in the market for a new suit are seeking a fresh look of refinement and class, and it is irrefutable that if you want to achieve those two qualities, there are steps you
must take.

We can’t have this conversation fully until you call us for a consultation, but the following information should place guidance until then:

The Collar

Take a look at the collar of your coat. Does it conform to your neck, or is there some space present that is undesirable to you? If the look is undesirable, the collar should be deconstructed and altered by a professional tailor. The deconstruction is highly important here. Many merchandisers will apply steam to shrink the collar as a cheap and temporary solution. However, there is no doubt that unless you deconstruct the collar and alter it to your measurements, after a few outings and dry cleanings the collar will not fit appropriately.

Shoulder Area

Next, check out the shoulders – more specifically, the space between your shoulder blades. If there are ripples there that run horizontally, the jacket may not have enough width in it to accommodate your build. When purchasing a suit, you should be aiming for smoothness along the shoulders and back, with a little play around the shoulder blades. The industry term is “draping,” and it is the section of the jacket that allows you to move your arms.